Took the slow train to Busan. Arrived at 4am. Passengers scattered into night, across the station plaza, ducking into taxis or walking. Like us, they were probably eager to get to bed.

Our plan: find a jjimjilbang, maybe take a quick hot tub soak before crashing. No reservations required, open 24 hours a day, cheap as sin -- jjimjilbangs have been our go-to places for overnight accommodations in Korea from the start.

Crossing the main street in search, we found ourselves in a red light district. A couple of Russian prostitutes sauntered by, offering their services very casually -- just talking to the air.

We steered clear of the ajumma pimps and found a jjimjilbang, a bright, blue and white beacon in a nest of gaudy neon and Russian signage. Sure enough, young respectable Koreans were filing in, mostly couples, squeaky clean and clearly not in the neighbourhood for its seedier services. We lined up, happily anticipating sleep, but once we got to the counter we were told "Korea Only."

I was shocked, furious, but talked down from any rash actions. We walked away; nothing to be done. Luckily, we had friends staying in a nearby motel.

My anger is gone. In that city block, a woman looking remotely foreign spells "SEX FOR SALE", a consequence of the nature of the business thriving there. We avoided it the rest of the weekend, happily returning to a Korea where our appearance usually incites a much more welcoming special treatment.