We discovered the area just South of the entrance to Jongmyo Park to be old man central! There was enough Brylcreem to grease an army tank, dentures to pave a plaza, Old Spice to fog up half of Seoul... Games of baduk and janggi were in progress all over the place. Boards and pieces were available for anyone to start up a match. Here were senior citizens, not hidden away, not slowly growing frail in rocking chairs, but socializing vigorously and thriving in a public space. Inspiring! A kerfuffle broke out while we were there (not over games, but politics or religion, we think). This was interesting as both the first real confrontation we've witnessed in Korea, and as further exhibition of some senior-citizen brio. Go old men, go!