We went to Bukhansan National Park last Saturday. Bukhansan ("North Han Mountain") borders a good portion of Seoul, and is composed of three main peaks, the tallest of which is Baegundae at 836 meters. The national park is South Korea's smallest. About half of it is within Seoul city limits. It is also the site of Bukhan Sanseong, a fortress erected in 1711 as emergency refuge for King Sukjong. If you like to hike, and many Koreans do, the park offers many trails and can be reached within an hour by subway and bus from downtown Seoul. Numerous Buddhist temples can be seen and overnight sites are also available. The trails close at certain times of the year, so it is best to do some research. We were greeted by a game of soccer baseball before venturing into the park. Near the entrance, among the granite and pine, were numerous restaurants serving jeon, barbecued pork, and soju. Many hikers were rewarding themselves after a day of climbing. We did not attempt the peak, nor did we see the fortress, but we enjoyed the rugged nature in its fall colours. Following paper lanterns lead us to a temple, hushed and serene. With the sun fading, we turned back for the day and began the walk down, speaking of plans to return.